#KODAK C 41 HOW TO#
#KODAK C 41 PRO#
#KODAK C 41 PLUS#

#KODAK C 41 PLUS#

I ended up needing six 1L glass bottles plus 1 500mL glass bottle to store my C-41 chemistry in. To start with, I knew I’d need a lot more bottles than what I had. Please read all safety and MSDS specification sheets for any chemicals that you purchase for this and other chemical processes that you may decide to undertake. This post is about conducting a chemical process which could cause harm to you and others if not conducted appropriately. This post is about the how and some examples of my results of actually doing this.ĭISCLAIMER: I cannot be held responsible for anything that you do as a result of following any information in or linked from this post.

#KODAK C 41 HOW TO#

So after sitting on this nagging bit of information that somehow separate bleach and fix is better than blix for months, I finally figured out how to move from using Blix to a separate bleach/fix combination. (There are rumors that the Rollei separate bleach/fix kit can be purchased in Europe. In fact, I can’t find a single site selling a kit with separate bleach and fix in the United States. So what’s the dilemma? The dilemma is that most C-41 kits targeted to the home developer come with Blix. There are many, many more places where PE and others tout the benefits of a separate bleach/fix over blix. It is what I have been saying all along!” (Comment #352 at ) I even sense a larger tonal range, and deeper blacks. 35mm almost seemed unusable before, but the results I just got here have true life. The biggest difference is the reduction in grain and increase in sharpness. After using blix for the last two years, I’m dumbfounded. “I used up developer from a tetenal kit I had on the go, so the biggest difference was using separate bleach and fix. The following discussion that another forum member started was very interesting to me: ” However, I can say that use of a blix instead of a real bleach then fix cycle is the root of many problems.” (Comment #356 at ) He has made a lot of statements on this subject on this site, including such gems as this: This particular employee goes by the moniker “PE” on the popular site APUG (Analog Photography Users’ Group), which has recently been acquired by Photorio.

If you have ever felt that way, then you’ll know how I felt when I first came across comparison statements made by a former Kodak-Eastman employee on the difference in C-41 with blix versus separate bleach/fix. With winter here I don’t plan on starting those experiments until spring with the possible exception of the Vision 3 500T.Have you ever read something before and been left with a nagging feeling that what you read discounted what you knew and made you feel like you weren’t doing as good as you could? And then did you spend months trying to rationalize that what you were doing was just fine and didn’t need to be improved?

#KODAK C 41 PRO#

In the future I have plans to conduct the same experiments with Kodak Portra (160, 400 or 800), Kodak Kodacolor 200 (Color Plus 200) and Kodak Pro Image 100. It will be interesting to see how the vision 3 films (50D, 250D and 500T) compare in C41. Over all I’m not disappointed, a few images in ECN-2 are actually Truer to color and give a nice look.

This brief experiment suggests that for some scenes that ECN-2 works well with Ektar 100 but is not a perfect substitute for C41 processing. Oddly some scenes look better in ECN-2 then the native C41, others do not. You will notice a color shift between the developers. I used Ilfostop Bath, Ilford Rapid Fixer, FPP Archival wash and FPP Foto Flow that I used for black and white development. For this experiment the remote remover/ pre wash is not needed.

The CD-3 was purchased from Artcraft Chemical for $25.

I purchased four chemicals from Photographers Formulary (Listed bellow) for $76. I used the formula and times from James’s experiences along with some other information I found from Kodak. With Kodak Ektar 100 being my favorite color negative film it was a no brainer to try it. I was truly amazed by the colors of the cross processing and just had to try it myself. I was first exposed to ECN-2 by Matt Melcher on his podcast episodes DYI ECN and ECN-2 Follow up. I know playing with theses settings alone will give other results. NLP settings: Source DSLR, Color model None, Pre Saturation 3 default, Tones linear + gamma and Color Kodak. All photos are not edited, the negatives were converted with Negative Lab Pro. All shots digital and film were shot at the same settings and metered with a Sekonic Twinmate l-208. The Kodak Ektar 100 was shot on a Nikon FM and Nikon F3HP with 35mm lenses. The first Gallery includes photos taken with my Nikon D810. This Is a comparison of Kodak Ektar 100 developed in its native C41 developer and motion picture developer ECN-2.

Kodak c 41